Driving in Uganda

Our trip started off with the phrase “we could never drive here” but Chris is now well on his way to being an expert 4×4 and combat driver!

Here are a couple of short clips to give you an idea of the sort of driving that is necessary in Uganda

Driving a car is a luxury in Uganda, with most people using the pubic taxi for transport, or the Boda Boda we have mentioned before. These are relatively inexpensive although the risk factor is rather high! When we travel into Kampala by ourselves we usually use these forms of transport however we use the car when we are going out with the family and sometimes for getting to and from school. At the start of our trip, Ivan took a trip to visit the Revival Centre’s sponsors in the UK, so Chris became chief driver for a few weeks. We are thankful we haven’t needed to drive since then, although it was a good (albeit daunting!) experience!

Our usual form of transport to get into Kampala is a public taxi.  These are sort of like buses without set stops, but they follow a particular route.  If you need one, you stand by the side of the road and wait for one with enough space (or not enough space – they will make room!) and get in.  Top tip – get a taxi that is as full as possible, as an empty taxi can add a lot of time to your journey while the conductor tries to convince every pedestrian to get in!  For 2500 shillings (about Aud$1.10) for a 12 mile trip to Kampala, a little extra time is not something we complain about!

Making friends inside a taxi! All these school kids shared the three seats in the back row!

The inside of a taxi – supposed to seat 14, we have experienced up to 20 people fitting in one!

We cannot do a blogpost about driving in Uganda without introducing you to Tom! Tom is a private taxi driver, who we came across on one of the very first weeks here. He was waiting outside the Garden City shopping mall we frequent, and asked if we needed a taxi. We already knew what rate we should be charged to get back to Matugga (the local rate!) and were impressed when he didn’t try to offer us ‘Muzungu’ prices! Since that day he has been our on-call driver every time we have done a little too much shopping for the public taxis (especially 5L water bottles!), or going somewhere a bit more out of the way, or just want to treat ourselves! We have met his family, two cute kids, and we enjoy his company while driving!

Tom and his car
Photo by Debbie Bognar

So far, Tom has also not run out of petrol while we’ve been traveling with him! This may seem like a small thing, but we are averaging once a month in terms of traveling in a vehicle that has run too low! It is not usual to ‘fill it up’ when you get to a petrol station, rather each journey requires a petrol stop with just enough for that journey being added. The reason being that the population lives on a day-by-day wage and a full tank would mean fewer groceries that day. It’s a common sight to see Boda drivers, taxis or cars stopped on the side of the road waiting for a jerry can to be bought from the nearest station. Luckily there are a lot of stations here!

This is the closest we got to a petrol station before running out – good effort!

Flat tyres are also a common occurrence on these roads!

Driving around using any form has given us great entertainment (when we haven’t been fearing for our safety!) in what Ugandans can transport on Boda bodas!

Best things we’ve seen traveling on a Boda Boda:

A Live Goat! The first time we saw this it was too quick to get a photo, but we were very surprised! The second time I couldn’t let the opportunity pass by!

Find the goat!

20 Jerry Cans – purely because the overload is amazing! Unfortunately no photo!

Fruit heading to the markets:

Pineapples!

Live chickens – see if you can count them!

Count the chickens

Wide Loads!

The width of a load never seems to be too much of a concern.

But the best of the best was a motorbike on a motorbike! This one we really wish we had caught on camera! A Boda must have broken down, but the solution of course is just to pick it up and put driver and bike on another Boda!!

Best views of other cars/trucks:

Tea Leaves make a great first class ride!

Logs! This never seems to be securely fastened down, and we much prefer not to be traveling behind such a load!

Whatever can fit on top of a taxi:

A taxi fare can include the roof of the taxi for an added fee.

Seemed to fit in this blogpost somewhere, a wheelchair!

And finally, come along with us as we take a ‘boda’ from the village back home

Gorillas in the Mist

How apt the movie title is!
This week we took a holiday as we passed the half way point (about two thirds really!) of our time in Uganda. 
Last week Wednesday we headed into Kampala to join up with the group traveling with Africa Travel Company. On meeting the rest of our traveling party we were pleasantly surprised to find that 6 of the 12 others were also from Melbourne! When you add two more New Zealanders and an Irishwoman with 3 years Aussie experience, we were feeling right at home in minutes! 
We were also really pleased to find that the tour was with ATC, to give us a taste of the tour we will be doing with them at the end of our time in Uganda. The ATC tours use ‘trucks’ for transportation, which mean that you sit nice and high up for a great view, and are able to more easily navigate the rough terrain of Africa! We had a tour guide, cook and driver who were seasoned professionals and kept us entertained, informed, and very well fed for 6 days!

The ATC truck

After a long and bumpy drive to Lake Bunyoni, in Uganda’s southernmost corner, we set up camp and relaxed with a glass of coke! 

Our campsite

Friday morning we set out at 5.30 to make the 2.5 hour drive to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for the highlight of the trip – Gorillas! The drive there was magnificent, the morning mist rolling off the hills and creating a heavenly landscape. The sunrise over the mountains provided the perfect start to what would be an amazing day. 

Morning view on the way to Bwindi

Arriving at the national park, we were given a briefing of the trekking we would be doing. Each group of Trekkers would be looking for a different family of gorillas though not all the gorillas in the park can be trekked as they haven’t all been habituated to people. We would have two tourist police with us, in front and behind, who are trained to fire into the air to scare off bull elephants or non-habituated gorillas that we may encounter. Pants tucked into socks to keep the ants at bay, and we were good to go!
Our group of eight drove to the other side of the forest to the starting point of the forest for our gorilla family. See the walking sticks? Those were VERY necessary! 

Tourist Police

Our trekking team!

Chris with our guide, Ben.  This is the name of the gorilla family we were trekking.

Our first hurdle was the walk to the start of the forest from the car park! A solid half hour, up hill climb! Set at a pace that had us all gasping – although the Ugandan woman carrying her bag on her head didn’t seem to have any problem. 
We rested at the top, before entering the forest where the real trekking began!

Looking back at the route we walked to get to the forest.

Before – still looking fresh!

The men!

The girls!
Photo credit: Tom Barnes

For an hour and a half we climbed our way around the beautiful forest, enjoying the dense bush and soft undergrowth. We were glad it wasn’t raining as the ground was already damp and slightly muddy from the mist. Once we were near the right location we went off the track, each step being machete-d out for us through the bush. We crept through, untangling ourselves from the thorns as we went.  Then suddenly they were in front of us! The gorilla family we were looking for! And to the right, a Silverback lying a few metres from us! 

For an hour we watched as the family gathered to pose for family photos to show off the babies and then the two silverbacks set the family off walking, allowing us to see their strength as they broke down trees and flatted bushes as they went. One silverback decided to show us who’s boss by beating his chest and bearing his teeth. None of us managed to record this on video or photo – I think we were all a little nervous!! 

Photo credit: Tom Barnes

Photo Credit: Tom Barnes

Photo Credit: Tom Barnes

The hour was up faster than we would have liked, but then we had just had the experience of a lifetime! 

Back trekking along the streams and out the forest, we were very pleased to make it back to the car park before the Ugandan thunderstorm rolled in!

Lunch stop, with the rest of the group

At the lunch stop, post Gorillas!

Connie and Ryan at the lunch stop

On the way home we found a landslide had blocked our path, so we had a 4 hour drive around the other side of the lake to get back, however it was a car ride filled with chatter and laughter – we could never have asked for better trekking buddies!

The next two days were much more relaxed, with a visit to a nearby orphanage a highlight. We were told of the history of the lake, the lifestyle of the local people (agricultural – but the men don’t work!), and the benefit that the permit payments to see the gorillas has done to the local economy and development. We were introduced to Frieda, a 84-year-old local who taught us how to be good Ugandan wives, after deciding whose physiques fit the bill! Chris and I were told to prove we were married with a kiss!  We went to the top of the nearby hill to get the best view of the lakes 29 Islands, including ‘punishment island’ where pregnant, unmarried girls were sent to be left for dead to ease their families from the social offence of their actions! Apparently they were also thrown off waterfalls, but got too good at taking their executor (oldest brother) down with them…

Frieda

Weaving a basket

Locals on the way to the orphanage

At Little Angels school sponsorship project

Overlooking the 29 islands of Lake Bunyoni

Chilling out, pondering life

A dug-out canoe ride, lake swims and book reading finished off a wonderful holiday! 
8 hours back to Kampala, passing the equator once again before we had to bid goodbye to the wonderful friends we have made!